Owners Manual

Please read this carefully. and please read this before you take the first ride on your new bicycle, and refer to this owners manual in the future bicycles are stamped with a unique identification number, also known as a serial number. You will find the number on the underside of the bicycle frame. It is wise to keep a note of this number in case your bicycle is lost or stolen.

Before riding - what you need

It’s important to ensure your bicycle suits your abilities and is roadworthy before you ride – for your own comfort and because under the law, a bicycle is a legitimate road vehicle.

If you have any concerns or not sure about any issues about the bicycle please bring in the bicycle to the workshop or take it to a qualified mechanic to have a look at. You do get a one year warranty with a new bicycle. Also every new bicycle comes with complementary service. That is best get done after 12 weeks of riding.

What equipment do I need?

Before you ride your bike you must have certain equipment. Having this equipment will help keep you safe.

All bikes must have at least one working brake, reflectors and a bell, horn or something similar.

If you ride at night or in bad weather, you must have attached to your bike:

  • a white light on the front visible from 200 metres
  • a red light on the back visible from 200 metres, and
  • a red reflector on the back visible from 50 metres.

Before every ride, there is a quick 5-point safety check that you should get in the habit of performing.

Tyres – Check they are inflated correctly. Have a quick look all the way around for any worn or cracked rubber.

Wheels – Check that the quick release levers (or wheel nuts), are securely fastened so they don’t come out while riding.

Brakes – Try both the front and back brakes to make sure they are working

Reflectors and lights – Make sure your rear red reflector is clean and visible and check your lights are working if planning to ride at night.

Handlebar - lift the front wheel with the handlebar and turn the handlebar left and right to make sure it is freely moving and does not feel any of the parts are loose.

Keep your bicycle in good condition.

List of parts and components

Keeping your bike in good condition will enhance your cycling experience and the longevity of your bike. Bicycles should always be well maintained and in good working order.

You should carry out the above 5-point safety check every time you ride your bike. You should also perform regular maintenance checks and have your bicycle professionally serviced at regular intervals, at least every six months, to ensure it is in the safest condition.

If you discover one or more of your bicycle parts is damaged or requires repair, ensure the repair has been completed by a qualified bicycle mechanic and is safe to use before you continue riding.


To reduce your risk of head and facial injury in the event of a bicycle crash wear an approved helmet.

Bicycle helmets

When riding, you are required by law to wear an approved bicycle helmet securely fitted and fastened on your head.

Look for the sticker certifying the helmet meets Australian and New Zealand standards (AS/NZS2063) displayed on the helmet to ensure it has passed stringent safety tests.

Protect your head – it’s the law. Choose the best helmet There are three types of helmets:
  • Soft shell – a foam shell with a fabric cover
  • Micro shell – a foam shell with a thin plastic cover
  • Hard shell – a foam shell with a thicker plastic cover.

It is recommended that you choose a brightly coloured helmet to heighten your visibility.

Your helmet must:

  • Be approved and conform to Australian and New Zealand standards
  • Be a good fit
  • Have a number of ventilation holes or openings
  • Be layered with thick, energy absorbing hard foam
  • Not hinder vision
  • Be lightweight for comfort
  • Have adjustable straps
  • Not have been damaged or involved in a crash.

Correctly fit your helmet

A helmet must be correctly fitted to maximise its effectiveness in the event of a crash.

  • Position the helmet on your head and tilt it forward until the front of the helmet is two fingers above the bridge of your nose.
  • Fasten and straighten the helmet buckles and straps and adjust for a secure fit.
  • One finger should be able to fit between the buckle and your chin while the helmet is firmly in place on your head.
  • Avoid wearing anything under the helmet such as a hat or beanie as this may affect the correct fitting of the helmet on your head. It may also hinder ventilation causing you to become dehydrated.

Key points to remember

Ensure the helmet is not tilted forward so that it covers your eyes or tilted to either side so it covers one side of your head.

Do not wear the helmet on the back of your head. It exposes your forehead and face and you risk being strangled by the strap.

Do not wear a helmet with the straps loose. It won’t stay in place and the straps could catch on something.

Do not wear a cap under your helmet. In an accident the cap may cause your helmet to come off.

Do not buy a helmet for a child to ‘grow into’.

Do not buy a second hand helmet. Even if it looks okay, it may have been damaged.

Do not wear a helmet after it has been in an accident or has been bashed. Cracks in the shell, cracked or squashed padding, or frayed straps mean that the helmet may have lost its protective qualities.

Replace your helmet

Damaged helmets can be dangerous. Replace your helmet if:

  • The helmet has been damaged or involve in a crash
  • The helmet polystyrene is cracked
  • The straps are worn or frayed
  • The helmet does not properly fit your head.
Seatpost and saddle

Proper saddle position is often a matter of personal preference. Saddles can be adjusted for height, tilt and fore/aft position. The exact combination that works best for you will depend on your physical size and your riding style. Make sure your saddle is secure before every ride. Most saddles are held in place by a few simple nuts and bolts. All of them should be tight enough to resist vigorous shaking.

Adjust your seat

Seat positioning is important for both stability and comfort. If the seat height is too low, you could experience sore knees. Position your seat at a height that allows you to bend your knee slightly when your leg is in its most extended position. Always check your seat is properly secure before going out on a ride – particularly after making any changes.

When you are replacing a seatpost please get the same size seat post that was provided with the new bike. Oversized posts simply can not be inserted below the slot, and undersized ones would wobble, so you want the right size. Any play will lead to rocking seat and possible frame damage.

Seatposts generally clamp directly onto saddle rails with which they must be compatible

To attach it to the bicycle's main frame, the seatpost is inserted into the seat tube, which must be of a very slightly larger diameter. The seatpost is held in place by squeezing the top of the seat tube with a tightening ring (temporarily reducing its diameter; a vertical slit cut into the tube allows this to happen without crumpling) until the tube firmly hugs the post where it leaves the frame. A hole for a pinch bolt (also known as a "binder bolt") may be built into the frame for this purpose, or a "seat post clamp" ( must be sized to closely fit the diameter of the seat tube). Whether integrated or separate, the seat post bolt can have a simple nut, can be an Allen bolt, or can include a quick-release mechanism, with a handle that releases the clamp without tools. A quick-release allows easy height adjustment of the seat, though increases the risk of seat theft unless it is also used to detach the seat when parking.

An over-extended seat post

This is a serious safety hazard. In general, at least two inches or 6cm of your seat post should be inserted into your frame at all times. Please look out for the minimum insertion mark on the seat post. Please make sure that minimum insertion mark is not visible. This rule however will vary considerably if you follow the growing fashion of "showing a lot of seatpost". If you have to raise your seat post beyond its extension limit line to get comfortable on your saddle, it's probably time for a larger seat post, or a bigger bike. Once you've found the "perfect" saddle position for you, mark your seat post and your saddle rails with tape or felt tip pen (indelible) so you can readjust them easily.

Preventing problems

Regularly remove your seat post from your frame and coat it with a thin layer of grease before re-installing it. This grease layer will help protect the post against rust and corrosion and more important, prevent the post seizing in your frame.

Do not mount a rack or a child carrier to the seatpost. This would compromise the strength of the seatpost and may lead to braking the seatpost. Please mount a rack or a child carrier to the bicycle frame or the rack mounts on the frame

Checking your saddle

You should check your saddle to ensure it's secure and properly positioned. Grasp it firmly and attempt to move it out of position while holding your bike steady. Some side-to-side movement will probably occur but if your seat post shifts up and down, or your saddle feels loose, make adjustments. Also check your seat post visually to make sure you haven't exceeded the seat post extension limit line (the furthest point that the post can be safely extended upwards) has not been exceeded. This is clearly marked on the side of your seat post. Regularly remove your seat post from your frame and coat it with a thin layer of grease before re-installing it. This grease layer will help protect the post against rust and corrosion and more important prevent the post seizing in your frame.

Saddle Cleaning Procedures

To keep your saddle in good condition, simply wipe it down from time to time and treat it with UV-protective conditioner. Most models can be cleaned with light soap and a little clean water. Others require special cleaners designed for their specific materials.

Handlebar and the stem

While riding sometimes bolts and screws get rattled loose. Therefor it is always important that they are checked regularly to prevent accidents.

Check the stem to see if the bolts are tightened accordingly to the correct torque (if you don't know this amount, please send us and email or call, or the stem manufacturer). Make sure that the bolts also are evenly tighten. Please do not over tight the stem bolts as this may lead to fork to fail.

Please do not remove any bolts or nuts from the headset or the fork. This includes the mudguard mounting bolt in the fork.

Check that the grips are secured and will not slip off. If you have got lock-on grips, the tighten the bolts on these if they are loose.

Check your brake levers and gear-shifters. These should be tight enough so they do not move around, but not to tight so they don't get snapped off if the bike is involved in a crash.

Before each ride pease make sure that your handlebar and front wheel fully sturdy and your do not feel any wobble in the handlebar. Also lift the front wheel with the handlebar and turn the handlebar left and right to make sure it is freely moving and does not feel any of the parts are loose.

Hydraulic disc brakes

A bicycle brake reduces the speed of a bicycle or prevents it from moving. Since forming the company bicycles are fitted with Hydraulic Disc brakes. Hydraulic disc brakes, offer more braking power and more control over braking power. Hydraulic disc brakes have a self-adjusting mechanism.

A disc brake consists of a metal disc, or "rotor", attached to the wheel hub that rotates with the wheel. Calipers are attached to the frame or fork along with pads that squeeze the rotors for braking. As the pads drag against the rotor, the wheel - and thus the bicycle - is slowed as kinetic energy (motion) is transformed into thermal energy (heat). Disc brakes are actuated hydraulically.

Please make sure before every ride brakes and brake components are clean, in good condition, properly adjusted and in good working order. Problems with brakes should be addressed immediately for safe riding. Riders should make sure the wheels quick release skewers are properly tightened before riding.

Please make sure brakes are inspected and serviced regularly by an experienced bicycle mechanic (At least 6 monthly). Front and rear brakes should be checked to make sure that all component parts move freely and are properly positioned. Also please make sure that all the bolts and nuts are fasted properly.

With hydraulic disc brakes, look for signs of leaking brake fluid near the levers or the callipers. Also inspect all hydraulic hoses and fittings for any leakages of fluid. If you see any oil leakages please replace your brake unit and or get the bike checked by a qualified mechanic.

To check the position of your brake assemblies, visually inspect both the front and the rear calipers and make sure the rotors are centered between the brake pads. Each pad should make contact fully with the rotor when the brake is engaged.

Worn and new brake pads

Hydraulic disc brakes have a self-adjusting mechanism so as the brake pad wears, the pistons keep the distance from the pad to the disc consistent to maintain the same brake lever movement. Disc brakes have pads that wear down over time due to normal use. This can lead to slower brake response times, and it can require more effort from you to engage your brakes. If that is the case please replace you brake pads immediately.

Disc brake rotor maintenance

Inspect the brake rotors (discs) for dirt and debris. Also look to make sure the rotors are straight and that they do not rub on the brake pads.

If the rotors are especially dirty, clean them with rubbing alcohol and then rough them lightly with really fine sandpaper.

While you’re looking at the rotors, check to make sure all the bolts that attach the rotors to the wheels are tight.

Off-center or miss-aligned brakes cause one side of the brakes to make contact with the rotor before the other one does, resulting in poor braking power and noise. Re-adjustment in many cases involves loosening the bolts and moving the caliper slightly from side to side to properly position it.

Brake pads.

Look to see if your brake pads are glazed or significantly worn. Check the pads by removing the wheel and looking into the space where the rotor spins. If the pads are glazed, remove them from the calipers and lightly scuff them on a piece of sandpaper laid on a flat surface. If the pads are less than 3mm thick, including their metal holder, they need to be replaced.

Squeaking disc brakes are often caused by pad contamination. Disc brake pads can be ruined by even the tiniest amount of oil, including the oil from your skin, so whenever you handle them try to minimize contact of the braking surface with your bare skin. If you do touch the pads, clean them with rubbing alcohol or a product designed specifically for cleaning disc brake pads. If you hear continues noice coming out of the brakes please get them checked by a qualified mechanic.

Brake levers

Brake levers can get slippery due to build of dirt over time. so please make sure your lever are free of them. They can also slip out of position on your handlebar. If so please tighten the brake lever bolt in the brake leavers handlebar mount.

To check your brake levers please squeeze them. When your levers are fully engaged, there should be approximately one 2.5 centimeters of space between the inside edge of each lever and the handlebar.

With hydraulic disc brakes, keep pressing your brake levers when the wheel is removed from the frame or fork. Doing so causes the self-adjusting brake pads to clamp tightly and it can be difficult to separate them.

Note: Please refer brake manufactures manual prior to any mechanical maintenance on the brakes. If you are not sure about the model please feel free get in contact with

Cables When attaching accessories to the handlebar please make sure that they do not interfere with gear shifting and brake cable. Otherwise they clamps on the accessories may tighten the cables which would lead to brakes and gears not working properly.
Tube replacement

When replacing a tube:

1. With rear wheels, ensure the chain is placed on the smallest cog before removing.

2. Unhitch the brake from the wheel.

3. Ease the wheels out, never forcing it.

4. Ensure the tyre is fully deflated by depressing the small pin on the tyre valve.

5. Pinch the tyre walls firmly together all the way around the tyre to work the tyre bead away from the rim.

6. Use tyre levers to remove the tyre by one lever between the rim and the tyre wall on one side, Hook the other level in at the same point and run it around the rim to release the tyre, Make sure the levers do not pinch the inner tube. You can remove the tube with half the tyre off the rim. You do not need to remove the whole tyre.

7. Lift the valve out of the hole. Remove the tube then partially inflate it to find the puncture location. Fell around the tube for escaping air and listen for the ‘hissing’ sound. Alternatively, you can place the tube in water and watch for bubbles to locate the hole. Make sure the tube is dry before you continue the repair.

8. Roughen the surface of the punctured area using the metal scraper provided with your puncture kit or use sandpaper.

9. Glue the roughened area and leave the glue to cure for at least two minutes.

10. Check inside and outside the tyre for the possible cause of the puncture and remove any debris. Also check for cuts through the tyre.

11. Take a patch from your repair kit and remove the metal foil backing. Firmly press the patch onto the glued surface.

12. Check that the rim tape covers the spoke vents and is centred into the rim well.

13. If the tyre has been completely removed, make sure that the tread pattern is facing in the correct direction. Place one tyre wall over the rim edge on one side, keeping the tyre tread in the correct directional pattern.

14. Partially inflate the tube in order to unfold any creases and insert the tube into the tyre.

15. Begin at the valve rolling the partially inflated tube into the well of the rim.

16. When the tube is bedded into the rim well, firmly push the tube valve to seat it properly.

17. Starting at the valve, begin rolling the outside wall of the tyre onto the rim. Do not use the levers to do this. Keep checking that the tube is not being pinched by the tyre.

18. If the tyre is a tight fit, start back at the valve and roll/pinch the rubber in a forward motion to increase the amount of stretch in the tyre.

19. Once the tyre is on, inflate the tube then check the valve for any further air leaks and check that there are no bulges in the tyre.

20. For a rear wheel replacement, place the wheel back by making sure the skewer is between the top and bottom chain and the top chain is engaging the small cog on the cluster. Flip the skewer over to lock.

21. Ensure the wheel is correctly centred in the fork ends.

22. Finally, hook the brakes and spin the wheel to check it is rolling smoothly. Repairing punctures

Bicycle maintenance

Performing regular maintenance on a bicycle will improve its performance and longevity, and reduce the risk of breakdowns. The exact schedule for a particular bicycle will depend on how it is used: its weekly mileage, the weather conditions, road (or off road) surface conditions and so on. Most parts will need attention and possible replacement every year or two; if this is done, however, a bicycle can be maintained in good working order for decades.

Servicing your bicycle The 3- minute check (before each ride)

1. Tyres should feel very firm to touch. The correct pressure is written on the sidewall of each tyre.

2. Check the seat is at the correct height and the seat post is tightly inserted at least 5cm into the frame.

3. Lift the handlebars, spin the front wheel, apply the brakes and check that the:

  • Wheel is properly secured in the forks
  • Quick release levers are secure
  • Wheel rotates freely without rubbing on the brakes
  • Gears and brakes operate smoothly and directly.

4. Lift the seat, turn the pedals, spin the rear wheel, operate the gears and brakes, and apply the above four stage test again

Weekly maintenance

  • Clean and lubricate the chain
  • Check wheel spokes and eyelets for rust or damage
  • Check tyre pressures.

Monthly maintenance

  • Check tyres for wear or splits in the rubber
  • Check wheel bearings, chain, gear cluster (back chain wheels), chain rings (front cogs) and head stem (handlebars).

Annual maintenance

  • Check the frame
  • Remove handlebar tape to check for rust and weaknesses
  • When purchasing new tyres, make sure they are the right size
  • When replacing the chain, also change the gear cluster as both generally wear out evenly

Tools you should consider having:

  • Allen wrenches (2-8mm)
  • Chain tool
  • Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
  • Open and/or box wrenches (8, 9, 10, and 15mm are the most common for bike use)
  • Tire levers
  • Pump
  • Puncture repair kit
  • Adjustable wrench
  • Torque wrench

Recommended torque specifications

Other than the components manufactured by the partner factories, bicycles comes with parts made by reputable companies such as Shimano, SRAM, Tektro, ProWheel. When you are referring to those components please make sure that you observe manufactures instructions. Instructions can be found on respective manufactures websites. Brand names can be found on components.

torque specifications are only guidelines.

Handlebar Clamp 6 Nm
Stem (head tub clamping) 9.5 Nm
Brake lever 2.8 - 3.4 Nm
Shifter 2,5 - 4 Nm
Lock-on grip bolts 2.5 - 4 Nm
Brake caliper screw to frame and fork 9,5 Nm
Disc brake bolts to hub 6 Nm
Bottom bracket 33 - 41 Nm
Crank bolts 48 - 54 Nm
Chain ring screws 12 - 14 Nm (Steel) and 8 - 9 Nm (Aluminium)
Pedals 38 Nm
Rear derailleur (fixing bolt) 8 - 10 Nm
Rear derailleur (clamp bolt) 4 - 5 Nm
Cassette Lockring 40 Nm

Clean the bicycle and store to limit exposure to elements that may exacerbate corrosion or rust.

Replace worn parts soon as you see them (ie: tyres, brake pads, grips, handlebar wrap, or chain)

Once a month

Do a more through safety inspection (check for cracks in areas where parts are bolted to each other).

Properly lubricate jockey pulleys on rear derailleur.

Check crank bolts and chainring bolts for tightness.

Check for trueness of wheels and play in hubs (do your wheels wobble back and forth).

Measure chain.

Check brake pads for wear.

Check to make sure all rack bolts are tight since they can loosen over a period of time.

Make sure there is no play in the headset.

If you own clipless pedals then lightly lubricate pivot points and springs.

Check shifting and braking cables and housing for cracking and corrosion.

With regards to bellow if you are unsure about any of the items bring in the bicycle to our workshop or take it to a qualified mechanic to have a look at.

Even properly torqued bolts can shake loose with time. Make sure nothing is loose

Squeaking bike

Bike squeaks when riding or pedaling.

Locate exactly where the noise is coming from. Squeaking may come from moving parts that are not properly lubricated, but can also manifest anywhere where two components meet. The drive train is usually the culprit but not always. If your skewer is not tight on your rear wheel it can cause squeaking noises. Your headset can develop corrosion and cause creaking or squeaking. If the bike is squeaking when you are not pedaling then it's possible it may not be coming from the drive train. Common sources include but are not limited to: front and rear derailleurs, chain, pedals (play developing in pedals and pedals installed without grease on threads), headset, handlebars, chainring bolts, bottom bracket, shift cables, contaminated brake pads (pads that have any type of lubricant on them), seatpost, suspension (front or rear), cassette, pivot points on bicycles with rear suspension, or just about any moving part.


There are lots of both wet and dry lubricants you can use. Wet ones, if used improperly, usually collect more dirt. There are a range of lubricants available at your local bike shop. The lubricant you use really depends on your needs. Those that live in more arid conditions may find a light lubricant does the job, but those in wet areas might not be able to use the same lubricant because of it's low viscosity which will cause it wash off quickly in wet weather. Ask your local bike shop what they use during bicycle tuneups to get a gauge of what you should be using. Keep in mind that there are different lubricants for different parts of the bike. You wouldn't use a bearing grease for your chain and you wouldn't use a freehub body grease for your pivot points on your derailleurs. Proper lubrication is key in bicycle maintenance and eliminating noise from your bicycle.

Chain skips

When pedaling, the chain will slip and skip

Single sprocket bike

Identify what is causing the problem

If the chain is too loose it will skip when you are pedaling under a load or when you are going over bumps. If the chain is worn out (which does happen after about 2000 kms and depending on how well chain has been maintained) it can also cause slipping and may wear out drive train components.

Adjust slop

Loosen the two axle nuts or quick-release lever and slide the wheel towards the rear of the bike to take up the slack in the chain. Also if there are tension screws are installed utilise them to move the wheel to the rear of the bike. Be careful to not over tighten the chain as it will put unnecessary pressure on the chain and bearings causing more friction on the drive system. Multiple adjustments may be necessary to achieve the perfect tension.


Check to make sure the rear wheel is centered in the rear. Use the seat tube (the part of the bike that your seat post is inserted into) as a guide to center tire. Looking down the length of the chain, it should not have to bend side to side when it goes around either sprocket.

Multi-speed bike

Identify what is causing the problem

The chain can be either slipping while staying on the same gear or the chain can be randomly jumping from one gear to the next. It can be difficult to distinguish between the two. Multi-speed bikes have derailleurs which keep the chain in tension on all gears so chain tension should not cause the chain to slip although you can adjust the chain tension with the derailleur.

If your chain is slipping

The chain could have a stiff link. A stiff link can be caused by rust or a bent link. You can try to putting some oil on the chain and cycle the chain a bit to get rid of rust, but don't expect this to eliminate the problem. It is hard to straighten bent links so it is better to just remove them with a chain cutter tool or replace the chain altogether. While putting the chain back together make sure you use a new chain pin since they require a press fitting and reusing the old one could cause chain to break apart under load.

If your chain is shifting at random

This may be a problem with the derailleur adjustment, with cable corrosion, or you may have a bent derailleur hanger.

Brakes do not work properly

Even when brakes are fully pressed the bike doesn't slow down fast enough for the user's liking.

Check the brake pads

The pads may be worn out. If so they will need replacing. See the Brake Pad Adjustment Guide.

Brake arm travel

You should not be able to pull the breaks so far that they hit the handle bar grip. If this happens then you need to get the brakes checked by a qualified mechanic

Hard to pedal bicycle

The bike is harder to pedal than it should be, even in low gears

Check the gearing on your bike

It may be in a gear too high to start moving. Simply shift down while riding if this is the case.

Brakes are rubbing

Get off the bike and spin the wheels. They should not slow or stop suddenly. Check to see if the brake pads are rubbing when the brake levers on the handle bars are not pulled in. You can either adjust the brake alignment and travel

Cone adjustment

If the brakes are not rubbing but the wheel still feels stiff, your cones are probably adjusted to tight. The bottom bracket where your crank arms attach to the bike could also be to tight. There are cones and bearings on every rotating part of the bike.

Check for wheel not wobbling

One or both wheels may be warped, causing them to move towards sides at certain point in their rotation. Use a spoke wrench to true the wheel. The truer your rims are the more smooth your ride is. There is also a little energy lost with wheels that are a long way out of round. See the Wheel Truing Guide for help with this.

If the wheel is buckled due to an accident please replace the wheel

Pedals don't make bike move

When pedaling, the bike doesn't move

Check your chain

The chain may have come off. The chain also may be broken

Pedals or crank arms are sloppy

When pedaling you feel too much play in the crank arm

Bottom bracket adjustment

The cones in your bottom bracket are not adjusted right

Please get the bike checked by a qualified mechanic

Shifters do not work properly

Shifters don't shift gears or shift when you don't want them to

Check the chain

The chain may not be completely on the gears, or may not be on correctly. Simply adjust the derailleur until the chain shifts freely. If that doesn't work Please get the bike checked by a qualified mechanic

Please make sure that you carry out regular inspections on the bicycle. Maintain the bicycle with due care. If you do not have professional knowledge of bicycle maintenance and or repair make sure you get the bicycle repaired by a professional. Same goes with brand new bicycle assembly, please make sure your bicycle is roadworthy by a professional prior to riding it.

Please replace or repair damaged components to make sure that your bicycle is safe to operate.

Thank you for purchasing an bicycle.